The best way to water your plants is to check if they need to be watered! You can do this by placing the top part of you pinky down into the soil, if it dry you should water. A plant's water needs are closely related to the amount of light it receives and growth speed. Generally, the more light the plant absorbs, the greater the growth and the more water is necessary. It is best to water in the morning when the plant is most active, allowing moisture to be effectively absorbed.
When you water your plants, most prefer a thorough soaking with tepid to room temperature water. Let the plant soak up the water for about 30 minutes and then empty any remaining water from the saucer. Do not allow them to sit in the left over water for long periods of time.
For Tropical high humidity plants, keeping the soil moist but not soggy is important. Water-logging any plant, will damage the root system and eventually kill it. Spritzing your plant with a spray bottle or investing humidifier will keep them happy and growing.
For non-tropical plants and desert dwelling cacti, they prefer the soak and dry method: a generous soaking of water following a drying out period. You should water the plant till the water flows out of the drainage hole and then allow the soil to dry out. Most plants do well if you let the top of the soil dry out slightly before watering, usually around 1 inch. Some plants, such as succulents and cacti are extremely drought tolerant and prefer to dry out completely between waterings. Checking the soil at the bottom of the drainage hole, would be recommend in that case.
Signs of over-watering:
Leaves are limp and rotten.
Flowers are moldy.
Both new and old leaves fall off the plant.
Signs of under-watering:
Leaves are wilted or dry.
There is no new growth on plant.
Flowers fall off.
Oldest leaves fall off first.
When choosing natural lighting for your plants, it is important to consider which direction the sunlight is coming into the window.
Northern Exposure: Great for low-light or indirect light conditions during the Summer for shade loving plants. During winter months the light level becomes unsuitable for plant growth for most species.
Southern Exposure: Great for bright direct sunlight for plants that need full sun conditions. For some plants this can often be too much and will cause them to sunburn. In this case, place them a few feet from the window or use a light filtering curtain for bright, indirect light.
Eastern Exposure: East facing windows receive bright direct morning light and bright indirect light in the afternoon. This is great for plants who need a lot of sunlight, but burn when placed in a south-facing window.
Western Exposure: Similar to an east window, indoor plants receive the same sunlight, except at the opposite time of day. Plants with higher light needs will do well with western exposure, especially when placed on a windowsill. Many other plants that have bright or indirect light requirements will do well if they are set back a bit from the window.
The three elements that plants need: Nitrogen (N) promotes green foliage and stem growth and is the dominant component of food for foliage plants. Phosphorus (P) encourages flowering and root development and is recommended to dominate feeds for flowering plants. Potassium (K) contributes to overall stem strength and disease resistance and higher potassium fertilizer is recommended for woody stemmed and fruit bearing plants. Fertilizer ingredients are listed in the formula N-P-K. 5-10-5 indicates 5% nitrogen, 10% phosphorus and 5% potassium.
As a general rule, fertilize plants when they are actively growing. Which for most is during the spring to fall. Feed plants when the soil is moist, using a liquid or water soluble fertilizer is recommended. Fertilize at ¼ to ½ the recommended strength. Plants will do fine with smaller doses. Applying fertilizer too often or too heavily can harm plants. When there is too much salt in the soil, plants have a difficult time taking up the water they need. Excessive salts can even burn sensitive root tips and leaf margins, leaving you with a sad, stunted plant.
Prevention is the best method for pest management. Thoroughly examine all plant parts and containers before bringing them home from the store or from outside. Isolate new plants from plants already in the home for six weeks to ensure that any pest brought in will be less likely to spread. Pay particular attention to the undersides of leaves, where pests are most often found. Using a 10X magnifying lens will make it easier to see small pests and also immature pest stages. Use yellow or blue sticky traps to detect flying insects like whiteflies, fungus gnats, winged aphids and thrips.
Non-pesticide methods include:
Common Pests include:
Sometimes called crown rot, root rot is a common problem caused by overwatering, insufficient drainage, and putting a plant in a pot too big for its size. The overwatering itself does not cause the rot but rather the excess moisture in the soil allows a fungus to set in and attack the roots. In severe cases, the entire plant may collapse. To diagnose root rot, roots will be mushy and discolored while healthy roots appear lighter and stronger and will not collapse after being lightly pinched.
Use a pot with drainage holes, but do not put rocks or gravel at the bottom of the pot. The presence of rocks or gravel can actually inhibit drainage. Do not reuse potting mix or from outside as the fungi that causes root root may be present. After working with plants with root rot problems, disinfest tools, working surfaces and clay pots with a 10% bleach or detergent solution, or alcohol. Finally and most importantly, moderate plant moisture. Provide enough water to fulfill your plants’ needs for growth and prevent drought stress, but do over-water. In particular, do not allow plants to sit in drainage water.
